Malpighia sp.
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Lighting:
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Malpighia needs 1500 Lux - a bright indoor location is
best. It should receive five hours of natural light in the winter.
It can also be placed under a grow lamp, but may need 14-16 hours of
light daily. It can be place outdoors in full sun in the spring,
but should be moved to semi-shade in the summer as the leaves will
turn yellow under hot midsummer sun.
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Temperature:
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In the winter, 64-75F for M. coccigera is best; do
not expose to temperatures below 57F. M. glabra can withstand
temperatures down to 40F, but prefers it to stay above 68F. The
plant can bloom at any time the night-time temperature is kept
above 60F. When outdoors, Malpighia needs shelter from high
winds.
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Watering:
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Malpighia likes it moist, and will lose leaves if the root
ball is allowed to dry out at all. However, overwatering will
cause the leaves to yellow. Malpighia dislikes salt buildup, so
consider using rainwater or distilled water. A second watering
20-30 minutes after initial watering will also help to flush excess
salts out of the soil. High humidity is beneficial, so
the use of a moisture tray or misting twice daily is recommended.
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Feeding:
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Lesniewicz recommends weekly for M. coccigera during
growth and monthly during winter with a high nitrogen fertilizer.
Matthew Ward recommends monthly feeding for M. glabra with a
liquid bonsai fertilizer or weak solution of fish emulsion. The
plant is subject to chlorosis, and may need additional iron. I
have found that a half-strength solution of Miracid takes all of
these concerns into account and works well with M. penoulata.
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Repotting:
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Repot every 1-2 years in the spring. Malpighia has a
two week long growth cycle, so observe the plant and repot
during a lull in growth. If conditions are optimal, the roots
will grow very fast and it may need vigorous root pruning. Use
a rich but well-drained, slightly acidic soil - either an equal
mix of loam, peat moss and sand, or bonsai soil with an
increased content of organic material. Be sure to use sterile
soil as Malpighia is highly vulnerable to nematodes.
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Styling:
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Young malpighia will develop stable trunks if staked for
three years. Malpighia will easily develop exposed roots. M.
glabra and M. penoulata lend themselves easily to weeping styles.
Weighting/bracing the branches seems more effective than wiring.
All Malpighia species make good informal uprights, in which
case the branches can be wired at any time during the year, but
should be wired as soon as they become lignified since older
branches are brittle. Pruning should take place when needed;
watch for branches which have lignified and have 5-6 pairs of
leaves. Cut back to 1-2 pairs of leaves and remove any small
leaves growing on the trunk and insides of large branches.
Defoliation is harmful to the plant, and is unnecessary due to
small leaf size.
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Propagation:
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Mid-spring through summer both hardwood and softwood
cuttings can be taken. Bottom heat greatly improves success.
Malpighia can also be grown from seed or collected during the summer.
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Pests etc.:
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Aphids, spider mites, nematodes, powdery mildew.
Malpighia is very sensitive to changes in climate and lighting
and may lose leaves when moved. Malpighia may need iron
supplements to prevent chlorosis. They do not react well to salt
buildup.
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Some species suitable for bonsai:
- Malpighia coccigera: miniature holly, Singapore holly, Japanese
holly - This plant has shiny green, thorny leaves, and small
pink flowers in the spring and summer which are followed by
pea-sized red berries. It grows to three feet tall.
- Malpighia glabra: Barbados cherry - Matthew Ward forwarded posts
with an
extensive description of Barbados Cherry:
>The Malpighia glabra, or Barbados cherry is native in
>southern Texas, the West Indies, northern South America,
>Central America and Mexico. Its natural form is that of a
>shrub or small tree 10 to 15 feet tall. It has leaves which
>are oval with pointed ends, neither glossy nor leathery,
>very dark green and small in size. Branches are flexible,
>the flower is rose-pink and the fruit is edible, a rich
>source of Vitamin C...In their native tropical American
>environment, they may be found in the under story of
>tropical forests or on rocky hill sides near streams
>where the soil is rich and moist.
- Malpighia penoulata: pink malpighia - Similar to other
Malpighias, this plant has pink flowers and red fruit.
The leaves are longer, brighter green and less shiny
than the others listed. In addition, it has long branches
which tend to weep.
- Malpighia punicifolia: Barbados cherry
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Date: Thu, 30 May 1996 16:30:41 -0500
From: "Matthew L. Ward"
Barbados Cherry (Malpighia glabra)
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Barbados cherry (Malpighia glabra) is a one of the three malpighia's
suitable to bonsai.
The Malpighia glabra, or Barbados cherry is native in southern Texas,
the West Indies, northern South America, Central America and Mexico.
Its natural form is that of a shrub or small tree 10 to 15 feet tall.
It has leaves which are oval with pointed ends, neither glossy nor
leathery, very dark green and small in size. Branches are flexible,
the flower is rose-pink and the fruit is edible, a rich source of
Vitamin C. Barbados cherry usually looks best in an informal upright
style. Exposed roots are also common and add accent to the bonsai
subject.
Wild Sources: In their native tropical American environment, they
may be found in the under story of tropical forests or on rocky
hill sides near streams where the soil is rich and moist. Plants
may be obtained by collecting during the summer months, but can
also be purchased from a nursery or started from seed, hard or
soft wood cuttings or root cuttings taken in the summer.
Flowering:
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As a sub-tropical tree, the Barbados cherry can flower at anytime
if lighting and heat are adjusted to mimic summer conditions. To set
flower buds, the night temperatures must be above 60 degrees. The
Barbados cherry blooms only from new, green growth.
Defoliating/Pinching/Repotting/Root Pruning:
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Repot only in the spring (April/May) when it is growing strongly.
The Barbados cherry appears to have a two week cycle when putting
out new growth so wait until the lull period between growth spurts.
Defoliating is not recommended and due to the small leaf size is
probably unnecessary.
The Barbados cherry is sometimes called the "weeping cherry" due
to the long flexible branches. If a weeping style is not desired,
continuous pinching of new growth is important.
Temperature:
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Malpighias are sub-tropical, so temperature below 40 degrees may
damage the leaves and freezing will kill the bonsai. Keep the
wintertime temperature over 68 degrees Fahrenheit and summer
temperatures as high as possible.
Watering:
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Do not let a malpighia completely dry-out. However, over watering
causes yellow leaves, and so does too much sun. Water on the blooms
ruins them.
Humidity:
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Use a humidity pan to keep humidity well above normal arid indoor
10-20% levels (50% seems to be OK). Morning and early evening misting
appear to work well even if no other humidification is available.
Soil:
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They prefer a slightly acid (pH 5.5 to 6.5) rich, moist but porous,
well drained soil, Peat moss, garden soil, leaf mold and sharp sand
in equal amounts is a good soil mix. The soil should be pasteurized
as malpighias are highly subject to nematodes.
Light:
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natural light: Five hours of sunlight in the morning during the
winter is sufficent and in the summer they can have
filtered sun or shade.
artifical light: If growing them under fluorescent lights,
they require 14-16 hours of light a day.
Fertilizer:
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Fertilize once a month with a weak solution of fish emulsion or water
soluble fertilizer.
Pruning/Pinching:
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Wiring doesn't seem to be very effective (old wood is brittle) so
shape by selective pruning and pinching.
The Barbados Cherry seems to grow continually as long as the
temperature is above 60. Pruning is possible anytime, but avoid
it when it is really growing fast. Growth cycles have a two week
period, so time accordingly.
Malpighia will bud from old woody growth, but only if new growth
is kept completely pinched off.
Since the tree sends of flexible green growth that bends under
the weight of the leaves, the best way to set branches is with braces,
not wire.
Warnings:
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Malpighias are not salt tolerant.
Watch for aphids and spider mites and treat accordingly.
Misting in late evening increases the possiblity of powder mildew.
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Date: Thu, 9 May 1996 06:06:35 -0400
From: "Sheila D'Ammassa"
Subject: Re: Weeping (Barbados) Cherry?
I have had a Barbados Cherry for three years; it is a very easy
keeper. You can prune anytime; wiring doesn't seem to be very
effective for me so I do most of its shaping by pruning. It likes
to be outdoors in summer here in zone 6 but it is very sensitive to
sun and wind so must be sheltered well. I had it outside last summer,
brought it indoors in early October just as it exploded with the
loveliest pink flowers - they looked like clusters of tiny orchids.
I have only repotted it once, in spring when it was growing strongly.
It does not seem to be fussy about light as long as it is in a fairly
bright place; I have had it on a table in a conference room in my
office for up to six months and it grew well there away from windows.
Mine is styled as a twin trunk with a rounded foliage canopy and
a mass of exposed roots, and is currently my favorite tree.
Sheila D'Ammassa
sdammass@risd.edu
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From: mpkdon@aol.com (MPKDON)
Date: 26 Jun 1996 02:48:39 -0400
I saw several barbados cherry when in Barbados last year. They seem to
have very weak branches and grow up by puting out new growth over the pile
of existing growth which supports the mass. When old, the pile of old
growth rots and becomes mulch. Left behind to my surprise, was a nice,
strong branch structure which made it through the process.
I have found that with our bonsai starters, when we stake them upright,
the trunk will get hard and make a thickness of a pencil in 3 years.
Hope I have helped.
Don Herzog
Miniature Plant Kingdom
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Information Sources:
Information on Malpighia is from Lesniewicz's "Bonsai in Your
Home," some very detailed posts by Matthew L. Ward, Don Herzog and
Sheila D'Ammassa on M. glabra, and my own slight experience
with my recently obtained M. penoulata.
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